Fiano: The Ancient Italian Variety Finding a New Home in the Hunter
- Your Hunter Valley Magazine
- 2 hours ago
- 6 min read
When bees swarm around ripening grape clusters in the vineyards of Campania, southern Italy, they're drawn to the intensely sweet flesh of Fiano grapes. This attraction earned the variety its ancient Roman name, Vitis apiana, from the Latin word for bees. Two millennia later, this remarkable white grape is writing a new chapter in its long history, establishing itself as a serious player in Hunter Valley winemaking.
Fiano's story begins in the volcanic hills of Campania, where it was prized by the Romans for producing Apianum, a celebrated wine served at imperial banquets. Wine historians believe the grape may have been cultivated even earlier by the ancient Greeks before them, making Fiano one of Italy's true classical vines with roots stretching back thousands of years. The variety flourished throughout the Roman era and into medieval times, with the first documented mention appearing in the 13th century.
Despite this illustrious heritage, Fiano nearly disappeared from wine history altogether. The mid-20th century brought devastating challenges to Campania's traditional viticulture. Fiano's natural characteristics, while producing exceptional wine, made it unprofitable for struggling growers. The small, thick-skinned berries yield little juice, and the vine's tendency toward low yields meant less income per hectare. During the 1950s and 1960s, cash-strapped farmers ripped out ancient Fiano plantings, replacing them with high-yielding varieties like Trebbiano. By the 1970s, the grape teetered on the edge of extinction.
Salvation came through passionate producers like Antonio Mastroberardino, who recognised the grape's unique qualities and refused to let it vanish. Using modern winemaking techniques, including temperature-controlled fermentation and stainless-steel tanks, these pioneers crafted wines that showcased Fiano's true potential. Their efforts paid off in 2003 when the region around Avellino received prestigious DOCG status for Fiano di Avellino, cementing the variety's reputation as one of southern Italy's finest white grapes.
What makes Fiano so compelling? The wine offers an aromatic complexity that sets it apart from more common white varieties. Expect intense honeyed notes, white flowers, and distinctive spice elements, complemented by flavours of pear, citrus, and toasted hazelnuts. The variety produces full-bodied wines with a texture that experts describe as weighty, creating an impressive palate presence. Unlike many white wines, best consumed young, quality Fiano has genuine ageing potential, developing deeper complexity and nutty characteristics over several years in the bottle.
These qualities have caught the attention of Australian winemakers, particularly in regions that share some climatic similarities with southern Italy. The Hunter Valley has emerged as one of Australia's key regions for Fiano production, alongside McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills. For Hunter vignerons, Fiano offers compelling advantages. Its thick skin and loose bunches provide relative resistance to botrytis, crucial in the Hunter's humid climate. The variety's drought tolerance suits Australia's often challenging conditions, while its naturally high acidity means less intervention is needed in the winery.
The growing presence of Fiano in the Hunter Valley reflects the region's increasing varietal diversity. While Semillon and Shiraz remain the valley's signature varieties, alternative Mediterranean grapes like Fiano, Vermentino, and Tempranillo are gaining serious traction. Well known producers, including Briar Ridge, Hungerford Hill, Dalwood Estate, Saddlers Creek, Allandale Winery, Greenway Wines and Stomp! Wines have all added Fiano to their portfolios.
Recognition for Hunter Valley Fiano came decisively in 2024 with Hungerford Hill taking home a trophy for their 2023 Hilltop Fiano at the Canberra and Region Wine Show and Stomp! Wines winning a gold medal at the Hunter Valley Boutique Winemakers show with their Limited Release Fiano. Since then, Saddlers Creek Single Suitcase Fiano was included in the 2025 Australian and New Zealand Boutique Wine Awards list, Greenway Wines was awarded Silver by Australian Wine Selectors for the 2025 Greenway 'favoloso' Fiano and Briar Ridge’s Limited Release Fiano won bronze medal at the London Wine Competition. These awards signal that Fiano has moved beyond experimental status to become a legitimate part of the Hunter’s offering.
For wine lovers, Hunter Valley Fiano typically presents engaging flavours of quince, green pear, and citrus, with occasional floral accents, nut biscuits, and spice. Some producers lean toward a lighter, fresher style with crisp acidity and mineral notes, while others emphasise the variety's natural textural weight and complexity. A few adventurous winemakers are even experimenting with skin contact or amphora ageing, pushing the boundaries of what Hunter Fiano can be.
From its origins in ancient Rome to its renaissance in modern Campania, and now to its establishment in the Hunter Valley, Fiano's journey demonstrates how exceptional grape varieties can thrive when matched with the right terroir and skilled winemaking. For Hunter Valley visitors this summer, seeking out a glass of local Fiano offers a taste of viticultural history being written in real time.
Check out our top picks!
Greenway Wines
Favoloso Fiano 2025
This boutique, family-owned winery was a pioneer in the region, being one of the first to plant Fiano in the Hunter Valley. Located in a charming "Big Red Barn" on the banks of the Wollombi Brook in Broke Fordwich, they focus on "the road less travelled" with 100% estate-grown fruit.
TASTING The 2025 Favoloso is a classic young Fiano showing bright pear, Granny Smith apple and subtle sea spray aromas. The palate is vibrant, racy and mouth-watering, with a lovely savoury texture and a deep core of white fruit. Fresh, lemony acidity brings balance, energy and drive through a clean, refreshing finish.
FOOD MATCH This is the perfect accompaniment for all things seafood.
CELLARING Enjoy in its youth or cellar for up to 5-6 years.
PRICE $35.
Dalwood Estate
2024 Fiano
With ripe, expressive fruit Dalwood Estate's 2nd vintage of Hunter Fiano delivers naturally balanced acidity well suited for autumn. Richly aromatic and textual.
TASTING Vibrant citrus characters layered with white blossom and herbal undertones. The palate shows a balance between zesty acidity and oily texture. The finish is crisp and lingering.
FOOD MATCH Prawn and scallop pasta, or a light prawn salad.
CELLARING 1-3 years.
PRICE $30.
Briar Ridge Vineyard
2025 Limited Release Fiano
Grown on well-drained red volcanic soils in the Hunter Valley, the 2025 Fiano benefits from moderate elevation and cooling ocean breezes. Careful canopy management and low yields produce concentrated flavours and balanced ripening, resulting in wine that's true to the region’s unique terroir.
TASTING Intensely flavoured, with layered nashi pear, ginger spice, and subtle white florals. A gentle nutty reduction segues into a rich, textured mid-palate, lifted by bright acidity and a fine savoury edge that adds length and balance.
FOOD MATCH Grilled octopus with lemon or crispy artichokes.
CELLARING Drink within 4 years.
PRICE $40.
Saddler's Creek Wines
Single Suitcase 2025 Fiano
This Hunter Valley Fiano is all about freshness, texture and balance. Bright and modern in style, it’s a versatile white that’s just as enjoyable on its own as it is alongside food.
TASTING Fresh and lively with aromas of citrus blossom, pear and subtle almond. Crisp acidity balances a rounded palate of stone fruit and gentle minerality, making it dangerously drinkable.
FOOD MATCH Just perfect with seafood risotto.
CELLARING Enjoy now to 2027.
PRICE $40.
Allandale Winery
2025 Hunter Valley Fiano
Fruit was sourced from the Parsons Creek Vineyard, nestled amidst the foothills of the Brokenback Mountain range. This wine combines classic, old-world Italian complexity with ripe Hunter Valley character.
TASTING Warm, inland Summer bestowed this wine with tropical fruit aromas and a palate bursting with notes of pineapple and honeysuckle, bolstered with a minerality of river stones and underpinned by a pink grapefruit acidity.
FOOD MATCH Sesame crusted prawn toasted brioche sliders with chilli crisp and pickled vegetables.
CELLARING Drink now to 3 years.
PRICE $30.
Stomp! Wines
Limited Release 2025 Fiano
An Italian varietal destined for the dining table. A dry medium-bodied style, loaded with lively fruit and personality. The perfect stylish addition to lunch or dinner.
TASTING This unique dry wine has enticing aromas of lemons, mandarins, pears and spice. These follow through to the soft palate unfolding with layers of juicy fruit with textural, nutty lingering finish.
FOOD MATCH Fiano's qualities make it a versatile addition to many cuisines. It's aromatics make it ideal with Asian seafood dishes whilst it's acid backbone cut through fried and creamy dishes and make it the perfect partner for seafood. Being a newer, alternative variety it's a great talking point at your dining table.
CELLARING Short Term - drink now or cellar for up to 5 years.
PRICE $30
