Beyond the Barrell: Three Regions, One Cellar Door
- Liane Morris
- 2 hours ago
- 4 min read
At first glance, Hungerford Hill feels unmistakably Hunter Valley with an iconic barrel-shaped cellar door, a long-standing reputation, and one of the region’s most celebrated dining destinations just steps away. But spend a little time at the tasting bench and a bigger picture begins to emerge. This is not a winery defined by a single region or style, but one built on the belief that the best wines come from the best places across New South Wales.
From the warmth of the Hunter Valley to the cool elevations of Hilltops and the alpine chill of Tumbarumba, Hungerford Hill’s portfolio reads like a map of the state’s most expressive wine regions. For visitors, that diversity translates into a tasting experience that is layered and engaging - a chance to explore how climate, site and season shape the glass, all within one destination.
It’s a philosophy that resonates strongly with today’s wine drinkers, and one that is increasingly being recognised beyond the cellar door. Over the past year, Hungerford Hill has enjoyed its most successful run on the show circuit to date, reinforcing the strength of its multiregional approach and the depth of talent behind the label.
The standout moment came at the 2025 Hunter Valley Wine Show, where the 2023 Sweetwater Shiraz claimed an extraordinary four trophies, including Best Red Wine of Show, Best Shiraz, Best Single Vineyard Red Wine and Best 2-Year-Old Shiraz - a rare clean sweep that firmly positioned the wine, and the vineyard it comes from, among the very best in the state.
What makes this win so compelling is what sits behind it: a winery confidently operating at the intersection of history, innovation and regional mastery, offering visitors a rare chance to experience the best of New South Wales wine all in one place.
At Hungerford Hill, a cellar door tasting is never just about the Hunter Valley. It’s about comparison, contrast and discovery. The tasting bench becomes a journey across climates, styles and varietals, guided by a team that wants to know what you like, not just what’s famous.
“Our motto is making the best wines from the best regions of NSW,” says Chief Winemaker Bryan Currie. “We focus on what we do well and fine-tune it. When you do that, the wines stand out.”
Right now, they really are. Beyond the headline, Sweetwater Shiraz win, Hungerford Hill has just claimed Hilltops Wine of the Year for the second year in a row and three out of the past four years with its Tempranillo Graciano, reinforcing the strength of its cool-climate program. Add to that a string of 2025 trophy wins, including Best Tumbarumba Sparkling (2017 Blanc de Blanc), Best Sauvignon Blanc (2025 Sauvignon Blanc) and Best Sangiovese, and the picture becomes clear: this is a winery firing across every region it touches.
Currie describes the 2026 Hunter Valley vintage as “solid across all varieties,” with lower yields delivering more concentrated fruit. “The Shiraz looks spectacular, and the Chardonnay’s looking very good too,” he says, a promising note for visitors keen to taste both current releases and what’s coming next.
That sense of depth and diversity is front and centre at the cellar door. According to Nick Williams, Cellar Door Operations Manager, Hungerford Hill’s greatest strength is its ability to offer something few others can.
“When you taste here, you’re not just tasting the Hunter Valley,” he says. “You’re tasting NSW. Three regions, three climates, three perspectives - it’s diverse, exciting, and it gives people real context.”
With over 40 wines available to taste, the experience is deliberately conversational and customer-focused. Tastings are tailored to individual preferences, whether that’s classic Hunter Shiraz, serious sparkling, or alternative varieties thriving in cooler climates. It’s also why Hungerford Hill rewards repeat visits because there’s always something new to explore, and rarely the same tasting twice.
For those looking to elevate their visit, the Epic Tasting Experience pairs premium Hungerford Hill wines with bite-sized dishes created by the team at two-hatted Muse Restaurant, delivering a mini-degustation that showcases just how naturally the wines sit at the table.
Muse itself remains a cornerstone of the Hungerford Hill destination as one of only 2 two-hatted restaurants in the Hunter Valley and a drawcard in its own right. Its influence extends beyond dinner service into a calendar of highly sought-after events, including the Epic Annual Lunches, where five-course menus are paired with aged and new-release wines, and the Sweetwater Estate Winemaker’s Luncheons, held just twice a year in the imposing French Gothic-style dining room overlooking the vineyard.
“These events always sell out,” says Williams. “People love the sense of occasion. It’s food, wine, and place all working together.” That sense of place runs deep. Hungerford Hill’s story traces back to land first farmed by the Hungerford family before its transformation into a vineyard in the late 1960s. Over the decades, the brand has evolved alongside the Australian wine industry, eventually becoming custodian of some of the state’s most significant vineyards, including Dalwood Estate, established in 1828 and recognised as the oldest continuously operating vineyard and wine brand in Australia.
Dalwood’s legacy looms large, with 2028 marking its 200th anniversary, a milestone Hungerford Hill is already preparing to celebrate in style. It was here that Shiraz and Chardonnay were first planted in Australia, a reminder that while Hungerford Hill is constantly pushing forward, it does so with deep respect for the past.
That balance is evident in the winery’s growing sparkling program, led by fruit from Tumbarumba. The recently released Dalliance Sparkling Rosé represents a new chapter, four years in the making, traditionally crafted, and deliberately savoury and structured.
“There aren’t that many serious sparkling rosés in Australia,” says Currie. “This one is serious. It’s built for food.”
It’s also emblematic of where Hungerford Hill is headed: confident, precise and unafraid to challenge expectations.
Add in a popular Hungerford Lunch, which is a two-course, sharestyle experience paired with six wines from across all three regions, and it’s easy to see why visitation is on the rise. Open seven days a week, with tastings, dining, events and wedding venues across Dalwood and Sweetwater Estates, Hungerford Hill has firmly positioned itself as a destination worth lingering at.
Come for the trophies, stay for the experience and leave with a deeper appreciation of just how good New South Wales wine can be. For more information or to book a tasting or experience, visit www.hungerfordhill.com.au.
