- Liane Morris
Magical Location and An Exceptional Dining Experience
Brian Duncan always knew he wanted to be a chef. A man of few words and extraordinary talent, he has enjoyed a long career in some of the best kitchens in the world, including the Dorchester Hotel (three Michelin stars) and Claridge's Hotel (one Michelin Star) in Mayfair in London as well as Level 41 and The Establishment, two of Sydney's premier restaurants. Since 2015, Brian and his New Zealand-born wife, Jen, have been running Hunters Quarter at Pooles Rock Vineyard, delivering an award-winning fine dining experience of elegant simplicity.
Brian grew up on the mid-north coast of NSW and spent a lot of time on his grandparents' farm, where they ran cattle and sheep and grew fresh produce. Here, he developed a love of paddock-to-plate that predates today's trend. As a young man and chef, he was influenced by this and by the classic French chefs such as Alain Ducasse and Paul Bocuse.
"My favourite place to work before Hunters Quarter was probably the Dorchester in London," said Brian.
"Everything was done properly. Not just the cooking but also the way the kitchen and staff were managed. I admire the classics and the old French chefs like Ducasse and Bocuse but also Dietmar Sawyere from Level 41. I don't subscribe to the idea that a chef can yell at their kitchen staff. People deserve to be treated with respect. The industry is difficult enough without putting up with that sort of treatment. I was lucky to have great mentors in my early career."
After their time in Europe, Brian and Jen decided to spend weekends in the Hunter Valley, recuperating from a busy city lifestyle and drawn by the food and wine scene. When their two children came along, they moved to the valley permanently, wanting to provide a country upbringing for their kids. It didn't take long for Brian to spot the potential at Pooles Rock.
"It's a beautiful building with 360-degree views of the vines. Architecturally built by David Clarke OAM in 1988 on the historic Post Office Vineyard site that dates back to 1890. It's a rare and, I believe, incomparable site; all glass, surrounded by mountains and mist – so peaceful and quite magical. It's an integral part of the dining experience that we offer at Hunters Quarter."
The purpose-built building is of such a high standard that there was little required in terms of interior design. Everything has been kept simple with extremely high-end tables and chairs from Italy for maximum diner comfort and beautiful accent pieces in silver to make the space pop.
Jen has a background in finance and recruitment and works as the restaurant's Business Manager. During Covid, she also worked front of house. The covid pandemic generated immense change for the restaurant.
"We are an à la carte restaurant, but there is now a three-course minimum at a set price. Staffing has been an issue in a regional area, and by reducing the number of days we are open, it enables our team to have work balance for efficiency and productivity.
"Our team is our family. We are incredibly proud of our staff, their commitment and the camaraderie we all enjoy. Working in hospitality can be challenging, and morale is an important component of a successful team and good customer service. During covid lockdown, we rang each other, checking in regularly and ensuring everyone felt supported. We all know that we have each other's backs, and it's wonderful. They even put our kid's extra-curricular activities in the restaurant diary so that everyone's across our commitments. We are incredibly proud of and grateful to them."
People are at the heart of Hunters Quarter – the team that delivers the service and the customers that come to dine. Humour, fun, respect and a driving need to create the best food experience possible underlines everything that Brian, Jen and the team stand for. And it's clearly working.
For the past five years, Hunters Quarter has been number 1 in the Hunter Valley on TripAdvisor, a fact that Jen is very proud of.
"When people are searching TripAdvisor for a food experience in the Hunter Valley, we come up number 1, and what's great about that is that we're slightly off the beaten track. You need to know where to find us. It's like knowing where the best underground club is in London."
The restaurant has also recently won several other awards, including "Most Relaxing Dining Destination in the Hunter Valley" with APAC Insider Australian Enterprise Awards; "Best Contemporary Dining Experience Hunter Valley" in the Luxe Life Food and Drink Awards; "Contemporary Restaurant of the Year" in the Prestige Australia Awards; and it's been awarded a hat by the Australian Good Food Guide every year since it opened.
Hunters Quarter has many options for private dining experiences with event services ranging from weddings, birthday parties and corporate functions. Food and wine packages are tailored for each individual event, and there is a dedicated events team to help with planning and execution.
When it comes to the food, the menu changes every six to eight weeks with several menus available, including à la carte, five-course degustation, vegan and a children's menu. Dietary restrictions are catered for and taken very seriously. The style of the food offerings is often reported as Modern European, but Jen disagrees and deems the style Modern Australian instead.
"There's no doubt that Brian's food is influenced by European styles and his time spent in London, but Australia is such a melting pot of different cultures with incredible variety to choose from, and I think his menus reflect that. We're Australian, and we're not trying to be anything that we're not. We don't have to. It's simple, elegant and fresh with a focus on locally sourced, in-season produce."
Brian and the team have been busy working up the Autumn menu, and regulars will be sad to hear that his signature Spanner Crab Dumplings haven't made it to the table this season.
"Brian has been trying for years to let go of the Spanner Crab Dumplings, but people really look forward to them, and we actually get emails about them," said Jen.
If it's Spanner Crab you're yearning for this season, though, you won't be disappointed with the Seared Scallops, Miso Chawanmushi, Spanner Crab, Palm Heart, Nori Crumb and Kombu Dashi as an entrée. Or for authentic autumn flavours and a touch of the Middle East, you can't go past the Hibachi Grilled Sumac Crusted Quail, Smoked White Bean, Tomato Concasse, Preserved Lemon and Pine Nuts.
This season's mains include Hickory Smoked Duck, Cauliflower Cream, Pedro Ximenez Prunes, Fioretto with Black Barley Pilaf; and Slow Braised Beef Short Rib, Grilled Onion Soubise, Parmesan Sourdough Gratin with Salsa Verde. For desserts, choose between Warm Bergamot Sponge, Binnorie Mascarpone Ice-cream, Limoncello and Fire Roasted Blueberries or for those that need a touch of chocolate in their dessert, why not try the Chocolate Baileys Pavé, Joconde Sponge, Hazelnut Praline Ice-cream with Blackberries.
The à la carte menu comes as three courses for $110 per person. There is a choice of five entrees and five mains with three desserts. For a truly special occasion and to immerse yourself in the flavours of Hunters Quarter, you can't go past the five-course degustation menu for $150 per person. In addition to the Spanner Crab, Short Ribs and Chocolate Baileys Pavé from the à la carte menu, there's also Hiramasa King Fish Sashimi, Wasabi Yogurt, Green Papaya, Sea Grapes, Pickled Cucumber with White Soy Ginger Ponzu; Tempura Zucchini Flower, Muhammara, Sheep's Milk, Figs, Walnuts, Vino Cotta and Baby Basil; Market Fish, Celeriac Cream, Black Pearl Mushrooms, Adzuki Beans, Sea Greens with Sudachi Emulsion; and Warm Bergamot Sponge, Binnorie Mascarpone Ice-cream, Limoncello with Fire Roasted Blueberries.
Vegans are also well catered for with a menu that features the Tempura Zucchini Flowers from the degustation menu as well as Herb Crusted Gnocchi, Ratatouille, Olive Pangrattato with Basil Oil; and Spiced Malt Friand, Toffee Caramel Pears, Oat Milk Sorbet with Brown Sugar Crumble for dessert.
Brian and Jen consider Hunters Quarter an extension of their home.
"When people come into our restaurant, we want to extend our hospitality in the truest sense of the word," said Jen. "We welcome you into our family, where we will look after you, let you relax, escape, celebrate and immerse your senses in the food, the wine and the spectacular views. We want everyone to feel completely relaxed when they leave."
And when it comes to the future, the couple has no plans to move.
"We don't miss the city at all," said Brian. "We love the Hunter Valley, the beautiful building we get to call our restaurant and the magical landscape that we get to work in. But, most of all, we're proud of our team and their dedication to us and to our clientele. We're here to stay."
Hunters Quarter is located at 576 De Beyers Road Pokolbin, and bookings can be made online at www.huntersquarter.com/#reservation.
